Thursday, September 4, 2008

My First Multi-Pitch Climb


About a week and a half ago, before all this business with school and homework started, my good friend Jeff and I decided we were going to attempt a multi-pitch climb in Rock Canyon, located a whole five minutes from my apartment in Provo, Utah. I had never attempted any kind of multi-pitch route. Jeff had been on a couple, and had never lead climbed on one before. Needless to say, we were pushing ourselves a bit. We decided on a three pitch route on a tower called the Trilogy Butress. We got some pretty good info on the route from an excellent website-mountainproject.com, as well as a dude at the local mountaineering shop.
Knowing that the heat was going to be our biggest challenge, we got an early start-11:30am. In other words, we ended up climbing in the sun during the hottest hours of the day.
I led the first pitch, an easy 5.6, to a ledge about 70 feet up the wall. I belayed Jeff up to my position, and he continued up the wall past me onto the second pitch, a 5.7. As he climbed up, the route took him around a corner and out of my sight. After a few minute, he shouted down that he could not find the anchors, only a single bolt with a rappell ring on it. What was worse, he couldn't see a single bolt anywhere on the rock above him. At his discretion, we decided to call it quits. I tried to lower him back to my level, but we found that with the rope running around a corner, there was simply too much friction. I could not lower Jeff at all. Still clipped in safely at my anchors, I untied from my end of the rope and let Jeff pull the whole thing up to him so he could rig a better rappell, which he did. With both of us at the bottom of the second pitch (remember, we're still seventy feet in the air), it was time to pull the rope. But friction had plans of its own. Try as we might, there was just no pulling the rope. It just would not budge. So we were stuck. We could not go up (no bolts), and we could not go down (the rope was stuck!). For an hour and a half we tried everything we could to get that dang rope unstuck. Finally, I ended up "reverse rappelling" the rope. That is, pushing off the rock with my feet while pulling myself up on the rope, then pulling the slack out through my belay device. So I ascended up the rope, eight inches at a time. I was able to free the rope and anchor it in a better spot (the next bolt down). I rappelled back to Jeff, and we pulled the rope without a problem. We were then able to rappell down to the ground. We hiked back to the car safe, sunburnt, and satisfied. It was a first rate adventure if I ever had one.

1 comment:

David said...

you be pimp!!!! sounds way fun, thanks for your donation!!! you dont know how much we appriciate it. wish you were here but it sounds like your keeping yourself entertained. keep on keepn on